Quimper, Brittany
Quimper is the ancient capital of Cornouaille, as Brittany used to be known. It’s about the same size as Vannes but felt very different. I could imagine myself living in Vannes, shopping at the downtown bio store, bakeries, and market. Quimper, however, seemed to be centred around the cathedral square with its two large museums with lots of bakeries and restaurants, but there seemed to be less shops for locals.
Perhaps I’d have felt differently if I’d spent more time there. I did love the cathedral with its two tall steeples that were visible from all over town. I also enjoyed walking by the river and there was a lovely garden (no photographs as it was raining when I was there).
Quimper is well known for its tin-glazed pottery with its folkloric designs. I was able to visit the showroom at Henriot Faïencier, but the museum, unfortunately, was closed.
I spent several hours in the Musée départemental Breton and would happily visit again. It showcases Breton history from pre-historic times to the present. They showcased traditional Breton furniture as it evolved over time and in response to different movements. There is also a very large collection of traditional Breton clothing which fascinated me.
Each small village had a traditional outfit that was worn by all the inhabitants. Young boys and girls dressed identically for the first few years of their life and then wore clothes the same style of clothing as the adults. Men wore cloaks made of sailcloth that often served as a sleeping bag when they slept on their boats.
The women’s hats and collars were particularly elaborate, and I couldn’t imagine how they worked and moved around in them. The dresses are so elaborate and worked with such care. The fuschias were hand-painted, while the embroidery and lace are so intricate. In later years, the decorations were machine-made, but the people were still wearing traditional clothes into the 1950s and ‘60s.
Clothing very much established where you lived, the work you did, and your status. Communities were tightly knit, going on pilgrimages together, with a very defined way of life.
There were two nuns wearing traditional headwear and gowns on my train when I left Quimper. Like traditional Breton clothing, it tied them to a particular community. Why is this acceptable when Islamic women wearing the hijab is so highly criticized?
I also enjoyed visiting the Musée des beaux arts de Quimper and was most attracted to the paintings of Breton life. My initial photograph is from a mural by Jean-Julien Lemordant representing Breton life that decorated a dining room. I loved the way he captured the force of the wind in the women’s clothing. The second photograph is of a painting of two women harvesting seaweed; I’m afraid I didn’t make note of the artist’s name.